時間在他的一周裡,我們一直在聽到時尚圈裡的某個字。除了“janties”、“Hedi Slimane”和“kilts”之外,一個也許不太出乎意料——或者至少不那麼耀眼——的詞一直在播出:耐用。它源自於Primark 新的耐用性框架,這家快時尚巨頭表示,該框架「旨在為零售商如何延長服裝的使用壽命設定標準——這意味著我們的顧客最終將能夠喜歡並穿著他們的衣服較長」。

達菲表示,一個真正耐用的時尚品牌“會優先考慮高品質、耐用的材料,如有機棉、羊毛或再生纖維,避免使用主導快時尚的廉價合成面料。”

當然,Primark 並不孤單。 “The reality is that … fast-fashion giants thrive on rapid production cycles, cheap labour and low-quality materials,” said Duffy. “The idea that their products can suddenly become long-lasting without overhauling their entire supply chain is deceptive.” Yet many fast-fashion brands have also spearheaded attempts to look more green. 2022 年,Boohoo 因任命考特尼·卡戴珊(Kourtney Kardashian) 为“可持续发展大使”而受到批评,而2023 年,一群有影响力的人士参加了Shein 赞助的旅行,参观了该公司在中國的「創新中心」。

因此,為了追求真正耐用,更具永續性的服裝,我們向專家詢問了選擇會真正經受時間考驗的衣服的技巧。无论您是要寻找一条新的持久牛仔裤,都要仔细考虑一件河水夹克,希望您能持续到冬天,还是在一家慈善商店里闲逛,以供老式的发现,以使衰老的过程变得笨拙,請繼續閱讀。


‘帶有彈性纖維的牛仔褲

含有彈性纖維的牛仔褲在穿著大約一年後,大腿內側和胯部區域會損壞,需要修復。標準牛仔佈在需要修復之前可能會持續兩到三年。

最耐磨的牛仔布是日本布邊。磨損確實需要時間,但持續時間最長。 Edwin、Nudie、Naked & Famous、Iron Heart 和 Joe & Co Denim 等品牌都生產高品質的布邊牛仔布。 – 麥可


「說到夾克,優質的拉鍊是您的首要任務 – 並且

面對面的購物總是更可靠。不要害怕在商店裡對商品進行測試。 Try a “pill test” by rubbing the fabric to see if it wears. Pull all the zips, poppers and seams – better to break it in the shop than on you!如果它確實壞了,就抱怨。我們首先要要求來確保品質。 – 羅莎娜‧沃森 (Rosanna Watson),Snowdonia Gear Repair 創辦人


“商店老式 – 總是看著裡面”

古董店是尋找真正獨特單品的好地方。

You will always find something more unique and interesting when you shop vintage – there’s an attention to extra little details because they were not mass-produced to the levels they are today. Always look inside – check the pocket bags, is the lining torn? But remember that even if something is damaged, a good tailor or local dry cleaners can usually repair, mend or even refashion. – Kim,老式姊妹的共同創辦人


“始終檢查眼鏡的鉸鏈”

跳過過去的時事通訊促銷

Choose acetate (plastic) frames over injection-moulded plastic – acetate frames usually have a metal support down the sides and they will feel heavier. Metal frames are durable, but are much more susceptible to scratching and are harder to repair. Plus, always check the hinges – plastic hinges are prone to snapping, whereas a metal hinge can break over time but can be repaired. – Peep眼鏡的共同創辦人Jo Skelton


Keep an eye out for welted boots – boots where the join between the upper and the outsole is stitched all the way around the shoe. Stitching provides an additional reinforcement to the construction, so your shoe is less likely to fail.它還可以使修復它們變得更加容易。

皮革鞋面通常比合成鞋面更耐用,這對素食主義者來說是一種恥辱,但至少就目前而言,這是事實。皮革鞋面通常也更容易修復。透過使用鞋霜,香脂和油脂來保濕皮革,保持表面健康並有助於防止水損傷,使其保持良好狀態。我交替使用鞋膏和鞋油,大約每個月擦一次靴子。 – 傑米懷特豪斯(Jamie Whitehouse),靴子修理公司


考慮調整尺碼,以便裁縫可以進行修改,讓合身感覺舒適 [if your size fluctuates over time]。尤其是商業街,為了進一步降低製造成本,將使用盡可能少的面料,而且通常我們覺得我們的衣服尺寸不會舒適,因為那件衣服的剪裁不允許有任何靈活性或空間移動。如果接縫處有一些多餘的布料,並且針跡筆直整齊,您可以選擇將該部分放入或取出。 –


“真正的復古物品有雙重下擺”

If you are not sure if something is vintage or a reproduction, look at the stitching or the hem of the garment. Real vintage items were often finished with a double hem, whereas reproduction vintage is only hemmed once and sometimes just overlocked to finish. – ,慈善商店的創始人

Got your own style question?將其發送至 Fashionstatement@theguardian.com。





Source link

More From Author

Netflix 的《Jentry Chau vs the Underworld》預告片中有黃阿里殺死惡魔的動畫

Netflix 的《Jentry Chau vs the Underworld》預告片中有黃阿里殺死惡魔的動畫

國際知名以色列作家埃特加·凱雷特回顧一年戰爭

國際知名以色列作家埃特加·凱雷特回顧一年戰爭

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Recent Comments

No comments to show.

Categories